Below the Belt #5: Fahmy Ismail, Kerbside&Co.
Speaking to those who know a thing or two about a thing or two on the question of quality denim
I’ve been putting Kerbside&Co’s LOT 66X Indigo Blacks through their paces for the best part of five months now. They never cease to impress. By all accounts, they’re a slim-cut, Kuroki-milled masterclass in simplicity done perfectly. There’s a lot to be said for selvedge that doesn’t shout. As much in their simplicity as in their quality, the LOT 66X offers up a fitting (and fitted) visual metaphor for what Kerbside&Co is really about: utilitarian, post-heritage garments that offer a fresh perspective on classic, blue collar americana.
Unsurprisingly, Kerbside&Co founder, Fam harbours a similar brass-tacks-and-no-bullshit philosophy to that of his small-batch brand. And aside from making a mean ol’ jean, Fam also happens to have a pretty impeccable taste in music. So sit back, throw on the oh-so-soothing sounds of a little post-hardcore, and check out Fam’s ‘Below the Belt’ ruminations.
Fam in the Kerbside&Co Guayabera shirt.
On Fit
“I am a bit of a style chameleon so I don’t really dictate what I can or cannot wear on a daily basis. And at 1.85m, I can pretty much mix and match what I have in my wardrobe without looking too awkward or hard-up. That being said, I tend to gravitate towards a certain style - a straighter cut or a wider leg pair of pants whenever I can. Mid rise to high rise are ideal for me. Fabric texture and fit are also very important when I’m deciding what to wear or make.
“I used to wear a single cuff on most of my jeans, with the exception of some vintage jeans that have an unusually long inseam. I get inundated with queries asking why I don’t run longer inseams for my bottoms; I just don’t. I design with the intention of my garments having a certain look and style to them, so my jeans are unlikely to have a 34” inseam and beyond. I like the pattern to end in a certain way, so if it’s longer than that, it just disrupts the flow.”
On Fabric
“Ah, the holy grail for some folks. I keep a lookout for any denim that is around the 11oz to 13.5oz range. Nothing too heavy for me, especially beyond the 15oz range. I do not see the point in that at all. 32oz? Just absurd. It all boils down to little more than bragging rights for brands wanting to outdo each other.
“I usually go for denim with a high amount of nep. My agents know what to source for me, so I get a spot-on selection from the Japanese mills. Well, most of the time anyway. 2x1 fabric weaves have a special place in my heart, too. I’m still deliberating on getting my hands on a little Cone Denim again; the temptation is really high.
“I eschew gimmicky fabrics and trends. I guess I’m a traditionalist in that sense. No such nonsense as crazy slubs, funky coloured cross grains or weird looking patches on my garments. Hell no; I leave that sort of thing to the other brands.
“I am not averse to one wash jeans however, I have done that for my collection and I will do it again. But that is about all that I can tolerate. I will not go beyond that. Well, that’s what I’m saying for the time being anyway.”
On Favourites
“Currently, it is our wide leg LOT 75E - made out of 14.5oz Kaihara Mill denim. There’s a fair amount of heft to the fabric and it has lovely drape I must say.
“The incoming pair that I am making (yet to be labelled) also has me pretty excited owing to the fabric’s beautiful characteristics. It’s a lovely shade of indigo with a dirty brown weft. It’s a high rise, super straight leg too.
“A long-time favourite pair that I’ll be semi retiring soon are my vintage ‘60s Levi’s 501s. They’re looking a little worse for wear, so I am keeping them under lock and key with all my other old Levi’s. The amount of money I spent on vintage in the 90s’/early 00s’ is enough to make me shudder. Best not to think about it.
“I’ve always wanted a pair of off white 501s, too. but there has been violent disapproval from a certain quarter, so I am holding that off for now! It has been more than a decade now though.”
On What to Wear them with
“A nice, clean, plain tee shirt or a button up always does it for me. Whether that’s with a pair of wide legs or a slim pair of jeans. It has got to be clean, even if your tee shirt is beaten up or in tatters."
“I dislike looking sloppy even on casual days. If it is a relaxed, baggy look, it has got to have some structure, this combo can go wrong very quickly if you have difficulty styling it.
“As for footwear, I tend to go with the Blundstone 500 or my Sperry/Converse sneaks on any given day. However I am a sucker for brogues. I’m still trying to justify getting a pair of Tricker’s or Church’s though. Ah, the wants of life.”
To Wash or Not to Wash
“I cannot emphasise this enough – for goodness sake; wash your denim when it gets really dirty. Don’t flog it through and through. I know it is workwear but really; the amount of bacteria in between those fibres? Geez.
“I know some denim heads are into those high-contrast fades and heavy whiskering, so they keep their denim dry for a year or two, but it is just not for me. Caveat emptor here: Kerbside&Co. garments are never about getting all of the above. The brand is about wearing down your hardy, well-constructed clothes the natural way. If those fades come along the way, then good for ya! But hey, that’s just me. You do you. Whatever floats your boat!”
