Below the Belt #3: Danny Hodgson, Rivet & Hide
Speaking to those who know a thing or two about a thing or two on the question of quality denim
The guys over at Rivet & Hide have been my go-to denim dealers for some years now. And with good reason, too. Championing a slower, calmer and altogether more curated approach to the question of style, Rivet & Hide’s London and Manchester stores have both become textbook examples of boutique retail done right. Passionate but never pushy, knowledgeable but never snobby, the Rivet & Hide team have a knack for making the big, bad world of denim - and indeed the wider world of menswear - that little bit more welcoming.
Having taken Rivet & Hide from online store to bona fide brick and mortar, it’s safe to say that founder Danny Hodgson knows a thing or two on the subject of selvedge. That he happens to be one of the nicest guys in the business is just a bonus.
On Fit
“Personally, I lean towards a slim tapered fit for the most part. Pure Blue Japan do a strong Slim Tapered model that fits the bill nicely and also happens to be a firm favourite with customers too. Iron Heart’s 555 slim cut with medium rise works well for me too. I like a small cuff but mix it up with a little stacking. It’s funny how tastes change over the years. Stacking was very popular when Rivet & Hide first started out back in 2012. Of late, I’ve noticed that our younger customers especially like to wear their jeans short with a cuff (and often with a wider leg). The in-house Union Special sees a lot of use as a result; we do a lot more hemming these days.”
On Fabric
“I gravitate towards the midweights, personally. I like denim with a little character too, something that will age well. Once again, I’ve got to single out Pure Blue Japan here. Their x011s offers a 13.5oz left-hand twill with an indigo warp and a grey weft. The rich indigo hue heightened by the grey weft really appeals to me, and the fabric ages relatively quickly, too.”
On Favourites
“We curate the best and most exciting of what’s out there in terms of premium selvedge denim, so it is hard to pick a favourite. If the denim is not exceptional then it doesn’t get a space on the rack. Simple as that. As for my personal rotation at the moment, I’m wearing PBJ, 3sixteen, Iron Heart and good old Flat Head.”
On What to Wear them with
“I love loopwheeled sweatshirts. The Nine Lives Tsuriurake loopwheeled sweater or the Studio D’Artisan suvin gold sweater can't be beaten on style, fit and quality. So you’ll often see me wearing either one of those with my denim. As for footwear, Viberg Boots are a no brainer. My go to boots include my Boondockers in roughout tan Horween leather and my Service Boots in Colour 8 Chromexel. If I’m looking to loosen things up a little, I’ll typically throw on a pair of Moonstar sneakers.”
On Whether or Not to Wash
"I try not to be too prescriptive. Part of the fun of raw denim is finding your own way and doing what’s best for you. Always wash them when dirty or malodorous. If you want really high contrast fades with ruggedly hardcore whiskering and honeycombs like you’ve just emerged from weeks of hard graft in a Californian gold mine, then hang on for a good few months before your jeans touch water. If you prefer a more washed out and evenly faded look to your denim then go in earlier and more regularly with the washing process.
“One thing to consider is that washing from time to time will protect your jeans and strengthen the denim. There is little point in never washing just to achieve that ultimate, super contrast fade if the denim then collapses under the strain and becomes completely unwearable”
