Below the Belt #6: Sean Hughes, Threadbare Repairs
Speaking to those who know a thing or two about a thing or two on the question of quality denim
Allow me to preface this with a little light-hearted anecdote: I almost lost my dog a week ago. A rogue firework sent the little guy running clear across my local park and headlong into traffic. Now, he may be small (and for the most part, stupid) be he sure is fast; catching up with little Ralph meant (literally and metaphorically) tearing ass after him in a feat of superhuman speed that saw me almost run clear out of my favourite pair of Studio D’Artisans. Ralph, you’ll be glad to know, was tail-waggingly, face-lickingly fine. The Jeans? The jeans were utterly fucked. Or so I thought.
You see, good denim is as much a blank canvas as it is a solid investment; it’s carefully crafted to go the distance and pick up a few funny stories along the way. But at some point, that denim is going to need a little TLC. Enter Sean Hughes over at Threadbare Repairs. Having worked with none other than Swedish denim darlings, Nudie Jeans Co. for best part of four years, it’s safe to say he knows a thing or two about keeping your jeans alive. With the help of his vintage Seiko machine, Sean offers repairs on the most beat up, broken down and blown out denim you can throw at him. Try him, I dare you.
Needless to say, all of those years spent bringing denim back from the brink of complete and utter destruction have granted Sean some pretty interesting perspectives on the subject of denim. Read on and check ‘em out.
On Fit
“My fit preferences are changeable, I think. In my teens and early twenties, I was definitely on the skinny jeans hype, but those days are becoming an increasingly distant memory. I like regular/straight fits which give me plenty of room down the leg so they’re nice and comfy and easy to move in, but not so much that they look loose or anti-fit. I like quite a clean silhouette. I really like the top block to be perfectly fitted – so there’s no excess fabric around the seat or gaps in the waistband. I hate feeling like my jeans are slouchy or saggy. I have a pair of black, vintage Lee jeans which I got from Glass Onion Vintage in Barnsley that are perfect for this. They have high a rise and fit like a dream around the top. They were a bit boot legged when I got them and had a really long inseam, so I’ve tapered them a little and hemmed them, so I get a couple of shallow cuffs. They’re my everyday jeans at the moment, I love em’. Stackings not for me personally, I like a couple of roll ups or hemmed so they sit a little bit cropped.”
On Fabric
“I’m not a selvedge purist. Buying and wearing selvedge is great and these days there are plenty of amazing brands making use of beautiful selvedge fabrics for their jeans. They look great, feel great and are a real acknowledgment of that ‘made to last’, quality manufacturing ethos; but there can be a misconception that non-selvedge is synonymous with poor quality, which I don’t think is true.
“There is no doubt that, on the whole selvedge is a reliable, robust material; but I think it’s important not to let the ardent commitment to that single outside seam override other important considerations - like how and where the cotton is grown, spun and sewn. Having an awareness of the environmental and social impact of denim manufacture I think is equally (if not more) important for those on the hunt for a quality pair of jeans. The GOTS and Fair Wear Foundation websites have loads of information on global standards for organic textiles and fair trade. They’re definitely worth a look.”
On Favourites
“I am desperate for a pair of Dawson Denim Regular Fit jeans! I’ve never had anything from Dawson but I love the whole aesthetic of the brand. I feel like they’ve really nailed down that artisan approach; and I’m very jealous of the quality of machines in their workshop. I’m a big fan of Livid Jeans in Norway for the same reasons. They’ve got a really neat, clean cut look which I love, and they brought out a Sashiko trucker I’d have killed for.
“I worked for Nudie Jeans for a good number of years and cannot speak highly enough of that brand. I’ve been wearing a pair of their Dude Dan, dry regular fits for a couple of years and they’ve washed out beautifully. They have tonal, indigo stitching on the back pocket, so over time it contrasts with the denim as it gradually washes out. It’s a nice subtle feature.”
On What to Wear them with
“I am 100% about comfort. The only time I really deviate from just an oversized plain, grey tee is when a drop in temperature calls for some extra layers. I have a Merz. B. Schwanen sweatshirt, which is my staple cosy layer, and a really uniquely coloured green worker jacket I got from my friend Ben at Clobbercalm. It’s kind of an off-teal colour, I’ve never seen anything else like it and its fits me perfectly.
“I have a Levi’s Orange Tab trucker which I think I wore everyday (no exaggeration) for about 4 years. I used to wear it under this big German military parker throughout winter, so it’s got these insane fades in the elbow creases and down the front panels from the friction of the overcoat; it looks amazing. It’s been all over the world with me and I’ve had to repair it a bunch of times. It’s too small for me now unfortunately so it’s become a wall jacket. It’s got pride of place next to my sewing machine.
“I’m not much of an authority on footwear to be honest. I wear shoes out incredibly quickly so I tend to go for the classics in the hope that they will last. In winter, I rotate my Red Wing 8138 Moc Toes and some Dr. Marten Chelsea boots. Both are super durable and haven’t steered me wrong yet. I tried to clean up my act a few of years ago so ditched the battered, toes-peeping-out pairs of Vans; a look I’d been sporting for about ten years. So, for sneakers I usually wear Vejas or my Air Force Ones, which, hand to God, I think are the comfiest shoes ever made.”
On Whether or Not to Wash
“I am firmly in the ‘wash your jeans’ camp. That’s not to say they need to be washed regularly, and certainly not after every wear, but I think if you’re breaking in a great pair of dry jeans washing is part of the process. That’s the beauty of buying dry jeans, you’re in control of getting that perfect fit and finish. If you want an overall even shrinkage and a uniform fade, stick them on a cool wash nice and early. If you’re after those super defined whiskers, honeycombs and a completely unique fit, which has shrunk relative to your shape and movements, wear the hell out of them before that first wash. Either way, those domestic washes are what lock in those individual characteristics which make your dry jeans so unique to you and your style.
“Hygiene is an important point here too. Jeans are for living in, which means inevitably, they’re gonna get dirty. So even if its sporadic, they’ll definitely need a clean. Plus, speaking as the guy who’s fixing those troublesome crotch blowouts; I’m getting pretty up close and personal with the intimate areas of the garment, so washing prior to repair is a must!”
On the Technical side of Threadbare Repairs
“I work on a Seiko, cylinder bed top stitch machine from the 60s. It was broken and had fallen into disuse when I got it. It’s since been serviced and cleaned up so it’s back to its former glory. It’s a lovely bit of machinery. I offer a hemming service, as a single, top stitch rather than chain stitch. But primarily, I offer a repair service. Making a few adjustments to the machine (removing the walking foot and isolating the feed dogs on the needle plate) replicates a darning function. This allows me to move the torn denim freely across the bed of the machine, so I have more control and can follow the direction of the weave with tight, consistent lines of thread. I will still patch behind the hole with a colour matching denim to provide reinforcement. But the darning motion of the needle means the repair is subtle if not invisible.”
To get in touch with Sean about getting your much-loved denim repaired, drop him a line at tbrepairsinfo@gmail.com or slide into his DMs at @threadbare_repairs.
