Below the Belt #8: Wesley Scott, 3sixteen
Speaking to those who know a thing or two about a thing or two on the question of quality denim
Now, I know what you’re thinking: 3sixteen is a brand that needs very little in the way of introductions. But humour me, won’t you? After all, 3sixteen was my ‘gateway’ brand in many ways. It opened my eyes (and wallet) to a way of operating that made abstract concepts like heritage, integrity and authenticity not just tangible, but downright personal. Bottom line? I dig the brand; I dig what it stands for; and as I might have mentioned a time or two before, I really, really dig its trucker jackets.
Since 2003, 3sixteen has navigated the intersection between streetwear and heritage wear with a style and ease both enviable and inimitable. It has done so by adhering to one, guiding principle: producing garments that - with time and wear - become well-aged but never old.
3sixteen’s Lead designer, Wesley Scott, is largely responsible for that very feat, which, if you’ll pardon the mixed (and madly-strained) metaphor, makes his two cents on the subject of denim well worth their weight in gold. And would you look at that, you can find said two cents below.
3sixteen Lead Designer, Wesley Scott.
On Fit
“At this point I’m almost exclusively wearing straight leg cuts. I’ve swung back and forth between slim fits and wider cuts for years but have always come back to a good straight leg. A high rise is a must for me, no matter the fit of the leg. I spend a chunk of the year commuting to the office by bike and a high rise is most comfortable for that. I have short legs so I prefer a clean hem, no break. Depending on the jean, I might want a small, single cuff. I have no rhyme or reason to that, it just depends on how I’m feeling when I get the jeans.”
On Fabric
“Fabric is a big part of the decision for me and subtlety is a key part of that. There’s nothing better than a simple, slightly textured denim. I love to see all the crazy fabrics that mills develop but I think it’s much more interesting, and difficult, to make a classic fabric that still catches the eye.
“Sugar Cane are masters at that. It’s also the reason why I love our 100x and 220x fabric- it’s beautiful from the start but you really start to see how special it is once it breaks in.
“As for weight, I prefer lightweight fabric- 12oz is my ideal. As much as I like how heavier weights break in, I tend to reach for my jeans in lighter fabrics most days. I’m also partial to black jeans. A well worn pair of black jeans is incredible. I have started working some indigo jeans back into my wardrobe though- I’m breaking in a pair of our CS-100xk now and it’s been fun to watch them fade.”
Wesley’s well-worn Sugar Cane 2009s.
On Favourites
“My favorite jeans of all time are a tie between the Sugar Cane 2009 (which I’m wearing) and our CS-100x. I wore both for years, and still do. They fit the bill on everything I’m looking for. I’ve recently started wearing the CS-100xk jeans, though, and that might be the new champion, until we make a CS-222x, our lightweight black fabric. The 100xk fabric is so dynamic- it’s got a soft but textured hand and nice drape. Even though it’s a bit heavier than I would usually prefer, the looser weave and soft hand make it comfortable right away. It’s an ideal year-round jean for me.”
On What to Wear them With
“My wardrobe has been shrinking with every passing year. For most of the year it’s jeans (black or indigo), black boots, linen shirt, black tee, light jacket. In winter, I replace the shirt with a black sweater and throw on a big coat. At this point, I wear black chelsea boots almost exclusively - either from RM Williams or Viberg.
“I’m also usually in our linen mechanic jacket from FW18. There’s a few items from our FW20 collection that I think I’ll be living in once they release. Honestly, I think the best part about jeans is that they just work with anything. Just throw them on and go.”
Wesley sporting the 3sixteen FW18 linen mechanic jacket.
On Whether or Not to Wash
“Wash and wash often. I tell everyone to wash their jeans every few weeks if you’re wearing them consistently. I understand the allure of the dirty fade look, but it weakens your jeans significantly. All that dirt gets stuck in the fibers, weakens them, and cause quicker blow outs and holes. No one wants that.”
