Below the Belt #1: Ben Neuhaus, Snake Oil Provisions
Speaking to those who know a thing or two about a thing or two on the question of quality denim
My turbulent past with emo-fit denim is, by now, a well-documented matter of public record. And while I’ve moved on to pastures new (and altogether less narrow), it never hurts to keep the conversation going and get a little perspective on things. Denim is, as they say, democracy in fashion. With that in mind, I’ve tasked a few industry pals and experts with dispensing their two cents on questions of fit, fabric and favourite brands.
First up is Ben Neuhaus, co-owner Snake Oil Provisions in Long Beach, California. Ben is a man with an uncanny knack for effortless cool and an easy, breezy approach to style. Just two of many, many factors that have seen SOP’s brand roster grow from strength to strength since their first brick-and-mortar incarnation back in ‘14. Leather peddler and slacks slinger par excellence, Ben also just so happens to think a thing or two on the subject of denim. Those things go a little something like this:
On Fit
“I only wear slim straight or slim taper fits on account of my short ass legs. I'm about 3/4 torso, so those fits stretch me out and make me look deceptively like a tall drink of water. For the same reason, I opt for hemmed jeans with no break. Cuffing and stacking, in my opinion, work way better on guys with long legs and/ or bowed legs, and I have neither. As for rise, I'm more open minded. I wear some lower rise (i.e. RRL Slim Fits), mid/high rise (i.e. Iron Heart 555's) and some in between (RGT Stanton and Stevenson Overall Big Sur). While rise is negotiable, I have to have a fitted thigh and seat area in the top block. Billowy thighs really bug me out. I can't and I won't.”
On Fabric
“As for color, I've been on the black or white/off-white jeans tip over blue. I really love black denim that's designed to fade - literally nothing cooler than a thrashed pair of black jeans. There was about a three year stretch where I only wore black or white jeans and vowed to only wear indigo again if and when we ever stocked RRL. That was a 3 year process to get RRL, and when we got it, I was true to my word and lived in the Indigo Slim Fits, which is still one of my absolute favorite indigo denim fabrics on the planet (it's a proprietary Japanese selvedge that's mid-weight, very hairy and fades incredibly).
“As for weights, I tend to gravitate more toward mid-weights (i.e. 13.5oz found on the Stevenson Overall Big Sur or the 15oz found on the RGT Stanton), but the 21oz denim that Iron Heart produces somehow defies all rules of science and reality in that it's so soft, so breathable, and takes very little break in. It never feels heavy or cumbersome when I'm wearing it, even in warm weather.
“I've always preferred Japanese denim and have found it far more interesting than domestic selvedge denim (when it was available in the states). I steer away from fabrics that seem gimmicky to me (super duper heavy weight, kooky warp and weft colors, excessively slubby or textured, etc.). While I'm a sucker for a great vertical fading denim fabric, I never choose a jean for myself or the shop just because of how it fades, what mill it hails from, etc. Fit comes first.
“As for washes, we are adamantly opposed to washed bottoms. We don't believe in washed men's jeans and take the old school stance that you need to earn it. Rinsed or overdyed is fine but no fake whiskers, honeycombs or other artificial distressing for us. I mean, there's nothing worse than seeing somebody walk down the street with honeycombs half way down their calves.”
On Favourites
“I thought you'd never ask! Here's my top four, in no particular order: Stevenson Overall Big Sur; Iron Heart 555'; RRL Slim Fit; RGT Stanton.”
On What to Wear them with
“I pretty much exclusively wear jeans with t-shirts these days. I almost never wear button ups, except for the occasional western shirt. More often than not, I'm wearing jeans with a t-shirt, trucker or leather jacket, and boots. The older and tireder I get, it tends to be what's most comfortable to me to wear all day and stuff I can stand, walk and move a lot in because shop life. Mostly, you'll find me in the oldest, rattiest SOP pocket tee I can find (much to [co-founder] Miranda's chagrin), either my A.P.C. Veste Jacket or Levi's Premium trucker - both of which I love because they're soft, lighter weight, and fit me better than anything else - or my Lær collaboration Modified Classic Moto. I love my Schotts when riding and in winter months, but for everyday wear, the Lær is super comfortable and easy to move in. Footwear varies a lot. Most days it's boots (Lucchese Jonah Boots or RRL Engineer Boots lately) or Vans Vault slip-ons or Air Jordan 1's on sneaker days. I start my day and end it in a RRL cardigan, because I'm basically Mr. Rogers.”
On Whether or Not to Wash
“Most definitely, 1000%, no matter what, wash your goddamn jeans. Machine wash, to be clear. Machine wash cold, air dry. I always get about 40-50 wears in before their first wash. It's best to make sure all the combs and whiskers are set in, and they've completely taken shape to your frame before their initial bath. Then I'll wash them about once a month. It's imperative to wash your jeans because, contrary to some beliefs on nerd/elitist forums, it's bad for the garment not to, and it literally decreases the lifespan of the slacks. All that funk, grime, dirt, and gunk adheres to the fibers and makes them brittle, which in turn causes premature blowouts, holes, and tears. Machine washing is the best because the agitation gets the grossness out more than a soak or river rinse. Or whatever it is the kids do now. AND regular washing makes ‘em fade faster. And in the end, that's what we all want out of a pair of raw jeans.”
